Surfing is
something that has always fascinated me. I find it amazing how surfers paddle
out, sit quietly on their boards, scan the waves as they form, then pick the
one they think is just right and in a burst of energy and grace they move with
the wave. Sometimes they stand and attempt to ride the wave, other times they
lie flat and allow the wave to run its course.
At the beach a
couple of weeks ago, I watched a young would-be surfer run to the water’s edge
with his board. He paused for a minute to survey the water and then in an
instant he was in the water paddling with his board. He didn’t go too far out,
just far enough to catch some small waves and he lay on his board and let the
water bring him in. After doing this a few times he attempted to stand and
after a few spills he "got it." He was
determined and he worked at it. What got my attention more than his success at
surfing was his falling or being pushed off his board by the force of a wave. At first he stiffened up when he landed in
the water, then he just gracefully allowed the water to take him and it always
brought him safely to the surface close to his board.
Mary Kay Kelley
SSJ
No comments:
Post a Comment